July 21, 2008

It's in the jeans

It's in the jeans:
Classic labels lose to celebrity brands

A younger generation of buyers is swapping Levi Strauss, Wrangler and Lee for lines by Victoria Beckham and P Diddy, writes Rachel Shields

They have hugged cowboys' bottoms since 1870. In the 1980s, Levi Strauss jeans became the must-have denims, when Nick Kamen shed his in a launderette for a TV advert. But now the company is looking threadbare, having recently suffered a 98 per cent drop in profits.


Classic cowboy labels such as Wrangler and Lee are struggling to hold their own in a market that has become dominated by designer brands and "delebrity denim" carrying the names of celebrities such as Victoria Beckham.

Levi Strauss first made trousers for prospectors in the California gold rush. The label was more famous for the hard-wearing quality of its jeans than for their sharp tailoring. While looking good might not have been a priority back then, it is in 2008, when denim is more likely to be found on the red carpet than at the coalface.

Classic labels now face competition from celebrities-turned designers, who are cashing in on the lucrative jeans market. Sales of Victoria Beckham's line for Rock and Republic are reported to be strong. The OC actress Rachel Bilson is the latest star to get in on the act, co-designing a collection of jeans for DKNY. And the rapper LL Cool J will be pitching his denim leisure wear against P Diddy's Sean Jean range in the autumn.

Levi Strauss is not the only established jeans company to have experienced problems. VF Corporation – which includes the veteran brands Wrangler and Lee – saw sales fall by 6.4 per cent in the first quarter of this year.

Meanwhile, boosted by celebrity endorsements, newer premium jeans labels such as Citizens of Humanity, J Brand, 7 For All Mankind and Paper Denim and Cloth are becoming household names. Nicole Richie, Jessica Alba and Kate Moss are rarely seen out of their J Brand jeans, and the company has just launched a new collection aimed at curvier women.

DKNY Jeans has also opened a string of shops across the UK this year, while the US designer Tommy Hilfiger's label Hilfiger Denim recently reported a 22 per cent annual increase in UK sales.

"If brands are really popular with one generation, then the next won't want to wear them," said David Pyne, UK manager for Tommy Hilfiger. "Kids just don't want to wear the same jeans as their dads."

Aimee Brown, denim buyer for Selfridges department stores, added: "Many of the older brands are not as well fitted to the body as other newer ones. Girls want their bum lifted, their stomach flatter, their thighs thinner, and with the new advances in denim, the jeans feel and look better on the body than old-school styles."

Armin Broger, president of Levi Strauss for Europe, the Middle East and Africa, said: "All these new jeans brands have been around for a couple of years, and what we are seeing is a crowding out. [But] Levi's is known for its ads, and we'll be launching a big advertising campaign in the autumn."

Why do men die younger?

They're twice as likely as women to be dead by 65. So why are they the weaker – and what can they do to live longer?

There is a charming anecdote that Marianne Legato, a best-selling American author and the professor of clinical medicine at Columbia University, tells about her father. He was a short, muscular and fit man, a successful physician like his daughter, who had one other passion in his life apart from medicine: hunting. He used to take his son on frequent hunting trips and on one occasion they came to the edge of a sunflower field.

There is a charming anecdote that Marianne Legato, a best-selling American author and the professor of clinical medicine at Columbia University, tells about her father. He was a short, muscular and fit man, a successful physician like his daughter, who had one other passion in his life apart from medicine: hunting. He used to take his son on frequent hunting trips and on one occasion they came to the edge of a sunflower field.

"The plants were tall and entangled together, making it very difficult to walk through them. My father, who was about 70 at the time, bent his head and simply started out, doggedly trudging through the field with no complaint, never pausing to rest and never commenting on how difficult the passage undoubtedly was.

"On another trip, my brother found him sitting on the edge of his bed, smoking, at three in the morning. 'What's the matter, Dad?' he asked. My father answered, pointing to his head: 'Too much traffic.' That was all he said. It would never have occurred to him to confide in one of his sons – or anyone else."

This insight into the family's modus operandi appears in the opening chapter of Dr Legato's latest book, Why Men Die First. It illustrates a truth about the male psyche: a bloody-minded refusal to ask for help. Dr Legato's father took risks, had enormous confidence and dismissed anything that might be interpreted as a sign of weakness. When he died of cancer, 10 years before her mother, it was partly because he had ignored the fact that his urine was blood-tinged for two years before he asked a colleague to examine his bladder.

For Dr Legato, part of the solution is that men need to live more like women. "Men are told from an early age to 'suck it up'," she says. "They are socialised to get on with it and it is left to women to urge them to go to the doctor, usually ineffectively."

It is extraordinary, as the opening sentence of her book says, that in a society where health is an obsession, we are not investigating in more detail the most fundamental question of all – why one sex should die before the other.

On average, women live seven years longer than men. Boys die more frequently than girls in infancy and in childhood. Between the ages of 20 and 24, three times more men die than women, and men are twice as likely to die before 65. Heart disease, cancer, suicide, accidents and murder are all higher among men.

The difference in death rates between the sexes has puzzled doctors on both sides of the Atlantic. In Britain, the former chief medical officer, Sir Donald Acheson, has a single word explanation for the gender gap: hormones. Among younger, testosterone-fuelled men, accidents and violence are the chief cause of death, whereas in later life they are carried off by heart disease – against which women are protected by the female hormone, oestrogen. Men also die in larger numbers from lung cancer, because they tend to be heavier smokers than women. It is men's "rash and venturesome natures" that rendered them the weaker sex, he says.

Dr Legato agrees that hormones supply a "tremendous part of the answer". But this raises a further question. "Why are we not looking for an oestrogen-like molecule to protect men from coronary disease?" she says. "Men start to die from heart disease from the age of 35 – it should be regarded as important as breast cancer."

Twenty years ago, men and women were regarded as indistinguishable in terms of the way their bodies functioned. Gradually, that view has changed as it has become clear that the two sexes are different, not just in the obvious ways, but in every system of their bodies. In 1992, Dr Legato wrote The Female Heart, exploring the reasons why heart disease affects men and women differently. That experience led her to create a discipline of gender specific medicine.

Today, the sexes are becoming homogenised as they exchange roles – she interviewed female soldiers, firefighters and boxers for the book as well as house husbands. But it is too early to say whether these changes will shift attitudes at a deeper level. Why is it, for example, that there are more cases of melanoma (the most serious form of skin cancer) in women, but more deaths in men?

Her latest book traces what she calls the "fragility" of men throughout their lives. As well as biological differences, social pressures on men can be lethal, she says.

Now in her seventies, Dr Legato has two children of her own, a son and a daughter, whom she admits to having treated differently, sending the boy to a tough school renowned for its discipline, while the girl attended a "softer" institution.

The legacy of that decision is still evident. Her son, a lawyer in his mid-thirties, called her recently to tell her he was sick and would not be going to work. Three days later he called again and it was clear that he was seriously ill, but had done nothing about it.

She says: "If he had asked for help earlier, I think we could have made him better sooner, but he talked of soldiering on. I wish he would read my book, but I don't think he will. He is not interested in why men die first."


Health risks every man should know about


Obesity

A waist measurement over 37 inches increases your risk of health problems such as diabetes and heart disease. Eat healthily and lose that gut.


Unprotected sex

Up to 50 per cent of men (70 per cent of women) with a sexually transmitted infection don't show any symptoms. Use a condom


Too little exercise

Staying fit is the key to good health. Walking is fine (10,000 steps burns 500 calories) and if you jog or swim or play football (700 calories an hour), you burn more.


Heart disease

There are more than 200,000 deaths a year in the UK from heart disease and stroke and together they account for almost one in three premature deaths (before age 75) in men. Check your blood pressure (should be below 160/100 mmHg) and cholesterol level (ideally less than 5mmol/litre).


Smoking

Men still smoke more and die more frequently from smoking than women. It increases the risk of heart disease, half a dozen kinds of cancer and other illnesses such as bronchitis. Half of all smokers will die from their habit if they do not stop. Give it up.


Drinking

Heavy drinking is common among men. In moderation alcohol enhances enjoyment and reduces the risk of heart disease. In excess, it leads to social and psychological distress and physical damage. Three small glasses of wine or a pint and a half of beer a day is fine – more could be problematic.


Testicular cancer

Although still rare, rates have trebled in the past 25 years and it is the commonest cause of cancer deaths in men aged 15-35. Check your testicles regularly.


Prostate cancer

The commonest in men with 35,000 cases and 10,000 deaths a year. Be alert to warning signs (difficulty peeing or getting up in the night).


Other cancers

Don't ignore symptoms (persistent cough, blood in the urine or faeces) – early treatment increases the chance of a cure.

July 16, 2008

Your Career In 2008…Get A Fresh Start

Have you thought about your career goals for 2007? What worked to years ago in planning and managing your career will not work for your career development in the 21st Century. Managing your career in the 21st Century requires preparation, career goal planning and career guidance and ensuring that your time is directed meaningfully.


Here is how to find enjoyment and continue to progress in your career.

1. Determine if your present job is in line with who you are, what you value, and what you are good at. Are you really doing what you want to do? Being self-aware means you become clear about what you stand for and what you have to offer. When you know what you have to offer, you become more powerful and intentional in your work. Doing a good job is no longer good enough to guarantee your career will go well. You are your most important asset. Self-branding provides direction and clarity of purpose for how you work, not just what you do for a living.

2. Identify your job satisfiers and dissatisfiers. Find a way to do more of the tasks/projects that you enjoy.

3. Identify your accomplishments.

4. Take the time to build and maintain relationship with individuals who might impact your work. You will benefit personally and professionally from the time you invest in such relationships.

5. Determine and write down your vision for your professional life. What actions do you need to take that will get you there? Celebrate the steps you take daily to achieve your vision. You can create the life you want! Here are some ways you can do that:

* Keep work in perspective - remember how you left work on time in the summer?

* Manage your stress - identify what causes you stress and how it affects you.

* Take time out - close your door (if you have one), call forward your phone, turn off your e-mail, take a walk. Use this time “during your work day” to prepare for a big meeting, a presentation or work on a project.

* Delegate - are you spending too much time on the administrative process of your job and not utilizing your skills to benefit your long-term goals and your company’s goals?

* Work/Play Balance - what did you enjoy doing during the summer that you want to continue (going to the movies, playing tennis, volunteering, spending time with your kids, seeing friends, etc.)? Put it on your schedule.

6. Be Bold! Don’t be afraid to take on some responsibilities in positions above you. Aim to always exceed expectations.

7. Manage your own time. Set boundaries. Learn to say “no” to non-essential use of your time.

8. Look for way to do things better, and more efficiently. Change a routine task - develop a new process. Instead of handling your e-mails as you get them, set aside specific times during the day to respond.

9. Be great at what you do. The knowledge and skill that create success in your current job will position you for your next move.

10.Be aware of roadblocks that can limit your potential to move upward.

11.Take on projects that will most likely benefit you.

12.Have passion for what you are doing and working toward. You will automatically put more effort into it. If you are not feeling passionate about your work ask yourself: is what you “should” be doing interfering with what you want to be doing?

Remember! Your career must contribute to your life, not the other way around!

July 15, 2008

Can I Pull Off Wide Leg Trousers?

Wide Leg Trousers are hot this season. Don't get left out in the cold because you're not quite sure how to carry this look off. Check out our Do's and Don'ts for this 'must have' trend.

  • Do wear with a softer top to give this masculine look a feminine touch.

  • Don't pair with tight tunic styles, opt for a slightly looser style instead.

  • Do create a streamlined look with monochromatic tones from head to toe.

  • Do wear with a loosely fitted, belted sweater or tunic.

  • Do balance a petite frame by pairing with a fitted shirt with minimal details.

  • Don't forget to have fun - step out of your comfort zone and try something new!